 |
|||||
 |
 | ||||
| I opted for a high performance alloy back box used for motorbikes. It is lightweight, not overly loud and has good flow rate performance. | |||||
 |
 |
 |
 | ||
Lowering the rear end before during and after | |||||
| The idea came from Andy Vowel a top UK triumph racer who runs very competitively. Basically you just drill a couple of holes a bit lower down from the originals in the rear uprights, if you have a swing spring rear end there is a bit of spring that may foul the brake cylinder. This bit of spring can be trimmed. Check for any fouling of the end of the spring to the rear brake bits before drilling any holes in the upright. Carefully measure where the new holes are in relation to the originals and repeat for the opposite side. There are two thick washers welded around the original holes to strengthen them. Similar thickness washers or bits of metal can be welded around the new holes. | |||||
|
| |||||
|
This gearbox uses internals from a single rail box built into a 3 rail body but retains a single rail alloy back bit. The bell housing is alloy and from an early herald | |||||
 |
 |
||||
| Couldn't get the Dellorto's to give a good idle as they were the emission type and more suited to bigger engines, its a shame because I prefer them. I got hold of a pair of Weber's as shown here. My current setup is the with the Weber's and an old Holbay air box. Notice the Peugeot 205 Alloy radiator with electric fan. | |||||
 |
| ||||
| These seats are from a Japanese Mazda MX5 (miata) | Fitting the FIA approved rear roll bar was fun! took a while but I got there in the end. | ||||
| Home | |||||
